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By Florence Fabricant
Headliner
Nonna Dora’s Pasta Bar
Addolorata Marzovilla, known as Dora, has been cooking for about 70 years, the last 32 of them alongside her son Nicola at his New York restaurants, notably the recently closed I Trulli. Now, at 85, she has her own restaurant, a showcase for her excellent handmade pastas, which opened in February. During the pandemic, she remained at home, making pasta. “I like making pasta” Ms. Marzovilla said, adding that she also liked being around people. This allows her to do both. Her son made it clear that this was her project, not his, though he is an adviser. The restaurant, serving only dinner for now, is small, with a dozen counter seats, a few high-top tables and an open kitchen at the small bar. Ms. Marzovilla’s menu, with a strong nod to her native Puglia, cuts no corners, offering a lengthy list of appetizers that includes panzerotti and Sunday meatballs. The pastas, just shy of 20 choices, include cavatelli with broccoli rabe and almonds; tagliatelle with wild mushrooms and truffles; orecchiette in rabbit ragú; three kinds of lasagna; maccheroncini grano arso (burnt wheat) with duck; and mezzelune stuffed with shrimp and mushrooms. A few family-style main courses, including roasted rabbit, rack of wild boar and Tuscan steak, can be ordered in advance. There’s a full bar and a small selection of products like olive oil for sale; all the food is available to-go.
606 Second Avenue (33rd Street), nonnadoras.com.
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